From an area of mostly bulk wines, the Valpolicella developed in no time into the realm of the widely respected king Amarone, which is not inferior to 'the wine for kings and the king of wines', the Barolo. It is pleasant tasting in Valpolicella, often for free still, and buying from knowledgeable and sympathetic winemakers. With impressive villas by the big names like Bertani and Guerrieri Rizzardi, Valpolicella also has a distinguished side. And it is pleasantly quiet despite the crowds at Lake Garda and its proximity to beautiful Verona. Text and Image Kees Jansen
Because we want to seriously stock up, indeed we are lovers, we take the full-day car journey at face value. Shortly after Bolzano or Bozen, it's still South Tyrol there, vineyards fill the valley well before Trento. The fast-flowing Adige and the surrounding green hills with mountains above set the scene. Where the motorway and the Adige bend eastwards, we leave the tourist magnets of Lake Garda and Verona behind. After the highway rush, the hilly green area with its vineyards and villages breathes pleasant rural tranquillity, even in July. The hills of Valpolicella are the last foothills of the Alps before a little further stretches the vast Po plain. It seems like it was made for touring in peace. Along the way, you enjoy the views, at an osteria enjoy a plate of pasta with truffles and a glass of Amarone and last but not least, enjoy being a wine tourist: tasting and buying.
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