Lightning visit Moldova

Ever heard of wine country Moldova? WINELIFE was also curious and went on a lightning visit. This former Eastern Bloc country has huge quality potential when it comes to winemaking. At least, only if they manage to shake off the stubborn Russian heritage and go for their own individuality, typicity and, above all, originality.
Text and image: Petri Houweling

It is actually not that far away, yet it is a completely different world. They have been making quirky wines there for centuries from grapes completely unknown to most of us. So we travelled east for a lightning visit and discovered a very special wine country: Moldova. 

REPUBLICA MOLDOVA IN BRIEF

Moldova is bordered by Romania to the west and Ukraine for the rest. You understand, this is not a pleasant position, which is why they applied for EU membership in 2022. This requires a different focus, because until 1991 Moldova belonged to the Soviet Union. Traces of that can be seen everywhere. It is a poor country, its inhabitants have the lowest income per of all of Europe. They also score poorly on the Human Development Index (human development in terms of health, poverty and education, ed.). Even tourists do not know how to find Moldova (yet); it is the least visited country in this region. This may be the reason why wine from there is unknown. It is not down to the quality and craftsmanship on the spot; wine has been made in Moldova for almost 5,000 years.

Not even tourists know how to find Moldova (yet)

SOVJETWINES

The 19th century saw the wine industry reach its greatest peak. That was also the time when authentic grape varieties were widely exchanged for the well-known French varieties, especially for export. Much of the wines went to Russia. There, Moldovan wine is still a household name. Pleasing, because viticulture is one of the most important sectors for the Moldovan economy. About a tenth of the country, which is just slightly smaller than the Netherlands, is covered with grape cultivation. No other European country even comes close to this high percentage. Indeed, Russians already recognised the potential of wine country Moldova during the era of the former Soviet Union. The Kremlin's cellars are said to still be full of it. Under their influence, the number of vineyards expanded considerably and gigantic wine cellars were built. These were also badly needed at the time because quantity was more important than quality. 

The basements of the Kremlin seem to be still full of them.

FLIRTING WITH THE WEST

The Russians were right: Moldova is an ideal wine country. The climate is Mediterranean, there are highly variable soils and the population has centuries of experience. But the country still struggles with bureaucracy, and the wines from it are hardly known in the West. Excellent wines are made from French grapes, but it is difficult to compete with the big wineries from the New World. 

The lack of typically indigenous grapes also makes it difficult for winemakers to distinguish themselves. In terms of sales, there is no real concern yet, as Moldovan wine is still widely drunk - via a diversion due to the war with Ukraine - in Russia. Moldovan wines are also eagerly sought after in neighbouring countries. They themselves like to flirt with the West, which is also because Russia can be rather unreliable as a business partner. 

Moldova is an ideal wine country

Read the whole article in WINELIFE 87.

Don't want to miss a single edition? Subscribe then subscribe to WINELIFE Magazine now!

Want to stay up to date with the best articles? Follow WINELIFE magazine on Instagram, Facebook and sign up for our fortnightly newsletter.