Valtellina in Lombardy is a long valley in the Alps, running from Chiavenna to Bormio. It sounds like the start of an article on winter sports, but the fact that this area produces top wines made from the nebbiolo grape is not known to everyone. We took part in the Valtellina Wine Trail in early November and spent three days in Sondrio, the headquarters of Valtellina. Right in a period for which disaster was predicted in Italy with lots of rain and floods, but we were lucky and spared the drops - at least those from the sky!
Mystical
The first thing we notice when we push aside the curtains of our hotel room are the beautiful terraces against which the vineyards are planted, shrouded in wisps of fog. Deliciously mystical! We take a short walk through the beautiful vineyards of Sassella, one of the five subzones of Valtellina. The other subzones with resounding names are Maroggia, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella. You can also see these names on the labels of Valtellina Superiore wines, if the grapes come exclusively from that subzone. In Valtellina, they have 2 DOCG labels, Valtellina Superiore and Sforzato. Both are made from the nebbiolo grape - locally called Chiavennasca - which must contain a minimum of ninety per cent. Ten per cent may consist of another grape, but it must be from Valtellina. However, most Valtellina Superiores and Sforzato are simply made entirely from nebbiolo grapes. Another requirement is that the wine must have been aged in oak for at least a year. The best wines may mention the addition 'Riserva' after 36 months of aging.
Superb hike
A good glass of wine has to be earned, so we head out first for a magnificent hike in Val di Mello, just under half an hour's drive from Sondrio. On the way there, we pass the Sassella and Maroggia sub-zones, enjoying the beautiful terraces. If anything, the hike through the valley is even more impressive. Locally, this valley is called 'Little Yosemite' and the comparison goes well with its impressive granite walls. We finish in a local little bar with a brioche and espresso, and experience that time has truly stood still here.
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