The world-famous Chilean winery Montes was founded in 1988 by four friends and owes its name to one of them: Aurelio Montes. WINELIFE tasted wines from and with the winery's spiritual father and asked him some questions. TEXT CHARLOTTE VAN ZUMMEREN
It is Aurelio Montes' eyes that first catch your eye. Light bright blue eyes, you don't often see them like that. Aurelio not only looks at you, but also takes all the time he needs to explain his activities in detail, because nothing is too much for the press. He hops through topics and questions. His eponymous son is also walking around at booth Aurelio. Junior has earned his spurs as a winemaker and together with his father forms a close and successful team.
Wine by nature
Their homeland Chile has been making wine since the 16th century, but in recent years it has gained a lot of fame. After Argentina, Chile is now South America's largest wine producer, and not only that: it ships over 75 per cent of its wine production abroad and is the fifth largest wine exporter in the world. The large, long, sunny and windy country is excellent for viticulture with as few pesticides as possible. Chile's wine-growing region stretches 1,500 kilometres in length and encounters various climate zones along the way. In fact, harvest times vary from north to south such that the harvest can take up to 2 months in total across Chile. Winemakers therefore travel the hell during the harvest season. Most wineries have vineyards in several regions. So does Montes, which has several vineyards in Apalta, Marchigüe, Valle Colchagua and Zapallar - together covering 600 hectares. In 2004, a totally new winery was built in Apalta following the Chinese fengh-shui philosophy around five types of energy: fire, earth, metal, water and wood.
Fine-tuning
We speak to Aurelio Montes at a wine fair, even before corona time. And fall straight in with the door about the fierce style of the Montes Alpha. On this he is brief: 'Yes, we have fine-tuned it. We battled the high alcohol content by leaving more space between the vines and rows, as well as better leaf management and less wood.' The sometimes scorching heat in Valle Colchagua also constantly has their full attention, says Aurelio. 'We rarely have sunstroke, even in the vineyards in Apalta. But drastic leaf management is and remains essential, as it can get quite hot there.'
Portfolio trials
Montes carries an extensive wine portfolio that includes the Icons, Montes Alpha, Outer Limits, Montes Twins, Limited Selection and a number of Special Versions, including Montes Cherub. We taste a selection. In the cool-climate region of Zapallar, Montes now makes a Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, among others. The Montes Alpha Pinot Noir, Montes Outer Limits Pinot Noir and the Montes Limited Selection Pinot Noir are wines that are quite something. All three are good Pinot Noirs: the Outer Limits has the most depth and length, the other two are again bursting with fruit and have that characteristic dryness of Pinot Noir. From Casablanca, also a slightly cooler region, come the Montes Alpha Special Cuvée Chardonnay, the Montes Alpha Chardonnay and the Montes Reserva Chardonnay. All three are soft and drinkable, with a nice minerality. The Montes Alpha Chardonnay and the Montes Reserva are a little heavier bodied, while the Special Cuvée is more delicate.
Uncategorized
The Special Version Montes Cherub also stands out. It is a rosé made from syrah; the grapes come from the vineyards closest to the sea in Marchigüe. The rosé is a vin de nuit: the wine is left in contact with the skins overnight. The result is a firm rosé, which falls into the category of Tavel and Clairet: nice pungency, lots of fruit and body. And a hearty label with a drawn cherub on it by illustrator Ralph Steadman, known in part for his collaboration with the ever-thirsty gonzo journalist Hunter S. Thompson. 'Labels are so important,' says Aurelio and we can only confirm that. We ask Aurelio about his activities outside Chile, as Montes has now also settled in Napa and Argentina's Mendoza. Surely one of his fascinations is and remains cabernet sauvignon. 'Napa is a perfect region for cabernet,' he says. 'We get the grapes from local growers. The first Cabernet came in 2006 and in 2007 we introduced syrah's Star Angel.' Since 2001, Montes has owned the winery Kaiken near Mendoza, managed by Aurelio junior. Kaiken was named after the wild goose caiquén from Patagonia, which can fly over the Andes.
Read the whole article in WINELIFE #66. You can order here
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