Wine from old vines has a magical ring to it. It is said to be better, more engaging and tastier, but do you really notice? And when is a vine old anyway?
Text and image: Magda van der Rijst
The age of old vines was vaguely discussed and disputed for years. What was old in one country was still considered young in another. However, everywhere the idea prevailed that wine from old vines had a better quality and therefore it was happily mentioned on a label. In itself, there is nothing wrong with marketing and - if the mention is justified - also useful information for the consumer, but for that we need to agree on when something is old, what old means and what values you can attach to it. Only then will everyone benefit from such a claim.
Winegrowers around the world felt the same and it led to agreements on minimum old-stem age in many places. The OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine) took stock of opinions and cut the knot in 2024: at 35 years, a vine is old. No wet-finger work, but a lower limit based on changes in the plant.
Oy, I'm growing
The vine goes through several stages in its life. After 30 to 40 years, the roots are fully developed and form a deep, broad base that allows the plant to survive even in hard times. The vine itself, which is a wild weed by nature, calms down from the age of 35. It forms fewer leaves and also fewer grapes in most cases, but what it gives has consistent quality. It is stable, keeps itself fit and requires less support; on the other hand, it demands applied, gentler guidance.
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