When you say ‘Mâcon blanc’, you mean ‘Chardonnay’. But as of this month, that is no longer the whole story. The rules governing the Mâcon AOP have been amended, and from now on, Aligoté, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are also permitted as supplementary grape varieties. Melon and Sacy may be used under special conditions.
Text: Ingrid Larmoyeur | Image: Manuel Venturini via Unsplash
Chardonnay clearly remains the dominant variety. Of the white grapes planted, at least 90% must be Chardonnay; the other varieties may together account for a maximum of 10%. However, in the final blend, they may account for up to 15% of the wine. The expansion of the number of grape varieties is explicitly justified as an adaptation to climate change.
Mechanisation
There are further changes. The minimum planting density is being reduced from 7,000 to 5,000 vines per hectare, and the maximum distance between rows is being increased from 1.80 to 2.20 metres. Among other things, this will facilitate further mechanisation.
Another notable change: the general ban on pieces of wood, such as oak chips, is being lifted. They may now be used in standard white Mâcon. However, they remain prohibited in Mâcon-Villages and white Mâcon wines with a geographical designation, such as Mâcon-Lugny.
Flexibility
The new rules give producers more leeway in the vineyard and the cellar. But these relaxations also raise questions. New grape varieties, lower planting density and oak chips: how much flexibility can you allow within an appellation without altering its distinctive character and quality standards? We are curious to see how Mâcon will ultimately develop in this regard.
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