When stories of climate change in viticulture surfaced about a decade ago, most winemakers were sceptical. They had already had several warm years such as 1976 and 2003, and shrugged it off. So the fact that harvests were starting earlier and earlier was not a big issue for them.
In 1986, I worked in the cuverie at Domaine Etienne Sauzet during the harvest. We were still working there even in the first week of October. By now, every winemaker has become convinced that we have to get used to early harvests - late August. Some find this a problem because in August their staff goes on holiday while preparations for harvesting have to be done. If we just look at the current decade, we see early harvests in 2011, 2015, 2017 and 2018.
Ripe & rotten
However, climate change also has advantages: in addition to generally greater ripeness and no diseases like mildew, the early harvest prevents rot caused by autumn rains. That rot was always Burgundy's big problem. Pinot noir in particular suffers from it. The enzyme laccase negatively affects not only the colour but also the aromas of the wine. The chardonnay is an easier grape in that respect.
Read the full story in WINELIFE #55. Buy it in shop or order it here.
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