Nebbiolo is among the world's great grapes from which great wines are made. At the WineLife tasting, that view was thickly confirmed. What great wines appeared on the tasting table. From the 67 entries, Rice, together with David van Steenderen, restaurateur and winner of the NK Wine Blind Tasting, selected the 27 very best. Text Magda van der Rijst
Nebbiolo is the grape of Piedmont, the region in northern Italy. The best-known nebbiolo wines are Barolo and Barbaresco. Also from Piedmont, and also on hand at our tasting, were Nebbiolos from Langhe, Gattinara from Alto Piemonte and, from Lombardia, several varieties of Valtellina. The level of entries was unprecedentedly high.
No sweetheart
Not everyone likes wines from the nebbiolo grape. It is a striking personality with firm acids and a big bite. The difference between a 'mwah' and a 'wow' is partly in the ripeness of the tannin. Ripe tannin gives structure and grip to an otherwise soft wine, unripe tannin makes the wine stiff and rigid. Nebbiolo is rarely a sweetheart, but a wine with character that you love or, if you pick the right one, learn to appreciate. With one of these 27 wines, that should certainly work. We left out the real troublemakers, but we were definitely not afraid of wines that require a bit of effort.
Time and space
Great Nebbiolos have a long life. Some reach drinking age after about five years and can easily age for 20 years. But, we observed, most won't reach that. For that, they are too exciting, too tasty. Besides time, Nebbiolo needs space. Overpouring in a decanter does most well and drink the wine from a glass with a wide chalice. With a little air, it opens up and reveals its secrets sip by sip.
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