One unusual consequence of this year’s hot summer in Champagne is that some of the grapes are so ripe that certain producers do not wish to make champagne from them.
Text: Ingrid Larmoyeur (The Wine Institute) | Image: Claudio Schwarz via Unsplash
Due to the heatwaves in July and August, the sugar content in the grapes rose rapidly. At Champagne Gosset, batches of must with a potential alcohol content of over 13% have been set aside. According to cellar master Odilon de Varine, these do not fit with the freshness and character that the house seeks for its champagnes. Several other producers are also considering using part of their harvest for other purposes.
One option is Coteaux Champenois, the AOP for still white, red and rosé wines from the Champagne region. They are mainly made from the same grape varieties as Champagne, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier. The AOP has been in existence since 1974 and production is small.
Maturity
The exceptional ripeness of the 2026 vintage may, in fact, be particularly beneficial for these still wines. Gosset has therefore decided to use part of the harvest for Coteaux Champenois rather than for its sparkling wines.
A charming nod to the past: Gosset was founded in Aÿ as early as 1584 and originally produced still wine. It was only later that sparkling wine became the region’s trademark.
But there is yet another option for producers. Under the current rules, champagne may contain a maximum of 13% alcohol following the second fermentation. This second fermentation in the bottle not only produces the bubbles, but also adds a little extra alcohol. With very sugar-rich grapes, that limit could therefore become a problem.
The Champagne sector has therefore requested that the maximum be temporarily raised from 13 to 15% for 2026. This does not mean that we will soon be seeing a flood of Champagne with an alcohol content of 15%, but it does, above all, give producers greater flexibility in light of this exceptionally ripe harvest. A decision on this is expected on 8 September.
Climate change is thus having a very tangible impact. In a region that became famous for its sparkling wines, ripeness has suddenly become something to think carefully about.
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