The Beatles and The Rolling Stones gained a rabid fan base in the 1960s, constantly wanting to be as close to their idols as possible. The groupie was born. A term that also fits German Riesling insanely well. Ever since the 18th century, this grape has had droves of enthusiastic fans. German Riesling rocks!
Text: Evelijn van Heuven | Image: Shutterstock 

You can see the images right in front of you. Men wearing wigs and extroverted suits with gold trimmings, bows and heeled shoes, women in lavish, flared dresses and with white powdered hair towering high above their heads, all with a glass of sparkling white wine in their hands. Wealth, fashion and taste go hand in hand. And in the glass? German Riesling. Because, during the 18th, and then also the 19th century, this wine from its eastern neighbours builds international fame. Rieslings are counted among the best wines in the world. These are the Golden Ages for the grape. The wines are drunk at the courts of European royal houses and are a favourite among the Russian tsars and Britain's Queen Victoria. The Prussian king, Frederick the Great, was also a great lover and even owned his own vineyards in the Rheingau, one of the top regions for Riesling in Germany. 

Historical auction records show that Rieslings often equal the value of gold

Screaming auction records

Wine lovers at the time pay exorbitant prices for a bottle of German Riesling, often even more than for the most prestigious Bordeaux and Burgundy wines. Historical auction records show that Rieslings were often sold at prices rivalling the value of gold. In 1868, for instance, a 1,200-litre barrel of Riesling from Schloss Johannisberg - still a prominent winery today - sold for a whopping 16,000 guilders, an amount huge at the time. If you ask ChatGPT to convert this, it estimates that it would now be between 87,100 and 108,900 euros. Katsjing!

Singing acids

The key question, of course, is how it is that Germany in particular is such a top country for a grape like Riesling. Here's the thing: The grape thrives very well in cooler climates where it ripens slowly and thus develops complex aromas and flavours. And Germany has that. The cool climate, especially in the northern wine regions, allows the grapes to retain their natural acidity. This is essential for the wine's freshness and liveliness.

The steep slopes along the Rhine and Moselle rivers also lend themselves perfectly to growing Riesling grapes. These are ideal conditions, with slate soils that retain heat and release it to the vines. This also gives the wines their distinctive minerals and fresh, singing acidity. Besides slate, other soil types include limestone, sandstone and volcanic soils. Each type contributes to the unique flavour profiles of Rieslings and adds its own characteristic to the wine, such as minerality or fruitiness. For example, wines from the Moselle are delicate and crackle with minerals. Those from the Rheingau are powerful and complex, while those from the sunnier Palatinate are again more full-bodied and rich.  

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