Marijke van der Ploeg lives with her husband in Portugal, where they transform a ruin into a little palace. She prefers to sit in her chaotic writing office, on the terrace or in the car - in search of unusual, natural wines. For the column Natural Wine Tasting at...she visits natural wineries in Europe and takes you into the funky world of natural wine.
How do the natural wines of a small wine house on the Moselle a coveted spot on the menu of the best restaurant in the world? I discover the answer during my visit to winemaker Rudolf Trossen: a colourful personality who has chosen his own path since childhood.
The seed to work biodynamically was planted early on: 'My father was already making wine on this site,' Rudolf explains. 'Because he had lost a leg during World War II, as a young boy I had to take over manual labour in the steep Moselle vineyards, such as spraying pesticides. I was proud to be allowed to help, however, I found those pesticides so terrible that I always kept a cloth over my mouth.'
Chemistry and Rudolf are not good friends. He therefore immerses himself in biodynamic farming methods, which was very unusual for the time. When his father dies in 1976, 21-year-old Rudolf and his wife Rita take over the vineyards. They naturally decide to work according to Rudolf Steiner's teachings: the first biodynamic winery in the region is born.
Disaster tourism in the vineyard
Rudolf and Rita realise their dream, but the rest of the surrounding area is less enthusiastic. To boot, the first year is not a success, the harvest is minimal. 'Bus trips were even organised so that others winemakers could witness our failure,' Rudolf recalls.
The quirky couple continues to believe in their winemaking philosophy and it is finally paying off: gastronomes abroad in particular are euphoric. Sommeliers from Noma and Copenhagen's Geranium - to name a few - can't get enough of Rudolf's pure rieslings from slate soils.
T-shirt wines and naked wines
Danish sommeliers occasionally come to taste new wines at Kinheim. Rudolf: 'One day they asked if I couldn't make riesling without sulphite. Wine friends from Antwerp also urged me to go down the natural wine path. I thought there was no market for that, but the market simply came to me.'
In 2010, the first sulphite-free Riesling became a reality. Anyway, Rudolf works according to biodynamic guidelines, uses natural yeasts, gives the wine time and intervenes as little as possible. With the natural wines, he also omits sulphuring and filtering.
Rudolf calls these wines natural or naked wines (after Alice Feiring's book) and the bottles quite appropriately bear a black and white label. The low intervention wines he renames T-shirt wines. Their labels have some colour here and there.
The many faces of riesling
Then the wines. I taste eight: all riesling, between 10% and 12% alcohol, fruity, elegant and flavourful. One of my favourites is the Kestenbüsch, or chestnut, which excels in minerality. Citrus and stone fruit, nice mintiness, an eternal finish - the wine has it all. The expressive Madonna from a pre-phylloxera plot is also a treat: pure, full-bodied, with some marzipan, baked apple and pear.
'People who are used to a conventional riesling are sometimes surprised,' says Rudolf. 'Due to the use of factory yeasts, among other things, many rieslings taste more or less the same, but with us you taste the influence of the terroir, our patience and our collaboration with nature.'
The Godfather of Moselle natural wine
So this is how it can go: once derided, now held in his hands. Rudolf has become the Godfather of the natural wine scene on the Moselle and other winemakers ask him for advice. Yet he has no star power: above all, he is proud to be part of the biodynamic wine movement and happy that people enjoy his wines.
Rudolf and Rita have since retired, but that does not mean they are hanging up the vines. 'I now still own 2 hectares of the original 2.5 hectares of vineyards, more is not allowed in Germany as a pensionado.'
It is likely that Rudolf will still be making wine in 10 years' time, because the passion oozes from it. He captivates tasters with his stories and his wines - which have remained authentic and pure despite their star status.
Curious about natural Moselle wines? There will be a tasting from different wineries
Read also: Natural wine tasting at... Marijke van der Ploeg's place
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